Draping training!

Hi dear friends check out the basics from moulage or Draping! love to talk! Love it Amazing! 🕊️🌷💕 I would like to share what I learned how to make the basic block slooper, or the basic blouse. To start you need to mark the manequin doll, we use a black satin tape to make what is called "fitilhamento" in portuguese. You mark the axles, the Sagittal axis, that is the line that goes in. the middle of the front of the manequim. Them you mark the neck of the the blouse of dress, called degolo. You will mark the bust line. will make the waist line, them you mark the hip line!

After mark the in manequin doll the axes parallel to ground we are going to prepare the fabric to make the front piece of the blouse with the darts! After to start to cut the fabric we are going to use the measurement tape and scissor, to take the measurement from the manequim to have the exact quantity of fabric necessary to make the blouse, we measure from the neck of the manequim doll to the waist line giving barely more or less 10 cm of space of each side for we work with the fabric, this will seam allowance and wearabillity allowance for the draping patter!.We will measure the manequin from the coronal axis, that is the side of the body. from the coronal axis to the sagital axis, that is to the line that cut the body at the middle front of the of the body from the front to the back of the body, giving a space of between 5 to 10 cm for each side for have space to work!

After have the measurements of the front of the body we will start to cut the fabric to make the blouse. The average of quantity is 49x39 cm, after cut this size we will squadrate (esquadrar) the fabric with the squared ruller trace the sagital axes, iron the fabric and them attach or pin the fabric in the manequin doll, with one pin in the neck with the line of the sagital axis attached over the fitlhated black tape of the manequim and one pin in the shoulder to the fabric stay stactic and able to manipulated! After organize the fabric in the manequim we start to manipulate the darts to them make the armhole,

To make the dart we will manipulate fabric to the point that goes in the middle of the nipple to the the middle of the shoulder, you go draping and manipulating the fabric until created a folded line that goes from the middle of the should the point in the center of the nipple, in the bi-dimensional pattern making we call point O. the famous ponto O! After manipulate the dart of the top of the blouse we close the dart with pins without head, we will going to pricking the dart with many pins until we create line as it was sewed.

To make the armhole, we are going to measure 14 centimeters to the middle of the top of the armhole and shoulders to the ground, After going down 14 cm we will the middle of the armhole, that is finding 7 centimeters from the 14 cm down in direction to the ground, whe you find the 7 cm you will prink with a pin with head and will measure 6 cm to the from toward the breast direction, and 5 cm in direction to the back of the body, in portuguese we say that we mark 6 cm to the front of the body and 5 from the back, We mark 6 to front 5 to back, and with the french curve we trace the arm hole with pencil.

After make the armhole, we are going to the dart under the breast in direction of the waist line. we will going to manipulate the fabric until create a line that goes down from the bust line to the the waist line, we will going to prink with pins to close the dart like sewing the fabric.

After make the darts, we are going to finish the front of the blouse, attaching with pin he fabric pattern to the coronal axis of the manequim body, or over the line in the side of the body, after attach with the pin trace the side line with pencil, also trace with pencil the bust line, the waist line and the neck line that is the black tape lines in the manequim doll. After traced everything you take off the pattern from the manequim and organize the pattern over the table. You will see the marks and notes of the pattern created from the shape of manequim doll, trace everything with a scale ruler and a french curve, trace the darts, trace the lines, make the armhole with the french curve to the pattern became more beautiful and functional, After organize everything you will see that you a perfect pattern of a blouse made of fabric as that one made with patterns with tradition bi-dimensional pattern making!

..... I will make the "how to do" part by part in the university this week of the patter making draping or moulage of the basic blouse front and back piece for you and I will finish the post for us!! I will soon will post everything explaning everything how to making everything perfectly! Bye!